Remember cholesterol? Apparently not, if Long Island's steakhouse boom is any indi- cation. It was not that long ago when boors at cocktail parties spent more time boasting about their HDL-LDL ratios than their children's SAT scores. Local sibyls were announcing the demise of the steakhouse.

But in the last few years, a section of Route 25A in northern Nassau County has been turned into steakhouse row, top-of-the-line chains like Morton's of Chicago and Ruth's Chris have gained footholds on the Island and homegrown spots like Pace's and Burke & Shapiro (formerly Frank's in Wantagh) have expanded to new locales.

What's going on?

Red meat is no longer a bogeyman but a sign of celebration. At a recent meal at Bryant & Cooper a woman at the next table remarked, "I'd be happy with a salad, coffee and dessert." Her husband replied: "Your can't have a salad, coffee and dessert. It's our anniversary."

Local steak spots ranged from the old-timers that weathered the lean years like Peter Luger, the Palm, North Shore Steak House and Manero's to the newest entry, the Vintage Steak House in St. James, which will open in two weeks. The latest Zagat Survey of Long Island Restaurants lists more than 30 possibilities. I've been to them all, most of them more than once. Here ar emy picks for best steakhouse honors.

Byant & Cooper in Roslyn is a steakhouse with a difference. It is owned by the same family as Riverbay in Williston Park, one of the Island's best fish houses. The big beef boys can enjoy beautifully aged meat while those looking for lighter fare are not stuck with a token fillet of salmon. We relished a lightly grilled Dover sole at a recent dinner.

Seafood openers were also a stripe above the norm. A salad that high-lighted a whole shelled lobster, slices of avocado and a thick slab of ruby red tomato atop well-dressed greens could not be beat. Nor could an airy crab cake next to a mound of tossed greens and a corn salsa.

Other interesting salads included a special of big chunks of cucumber and farmstand fresh tomatoes in a dill vinaigrette, and a mix of fluffy mesclun under a blizzard of crumbled Gorgonzola cheese.

He-men will gravitate to the juicy, tender, nicely charred porterhouse for two, three or four people. The velvety mignon drew raves as well. The creamed spinach was extraordinarily tasty and the hash browns the epitome of what they should be: crisp cubes with soft, melt-in-the-mouth centers. The creamy cheesecake completed a flawless meal.

Attractive wood molding, inlaid marble and hunt prints say steakhouse, but plants lighten the look without making it fussy. Bryant & Cooper is a universal pleaser doing double duty. It delivers great steak and much more.

And which is the top steakhouse from this elite list of nine? Bryant & Cooper. It served steaks that were everything we hope for in a piece of meat: great beefy flavor, precise cooking, tenderness and a noteworthy crust.

Bryant & Cooper has it all: pleasant surroundings, good service, wonderful steaks, memorable side dishes and appealing alternatives to red meat. In short, it sets the standard for Long Island's big beef emporiums.